Lab 7

First subject 50mm f5.6 ISO 400

Normally exposed 1/80

One stop overexposed 1/40

One stop underexposed 1/125

Which gives the best exposure and why?
Because I spot metered on my model face, it is better one stop overexposed because we want the white background to look white.


Second subject 50 mm f5.6 ISO 1600

Right exposure 1/320

One stop underexposed 1/800

Screen shots

Right

Under

In which image is the noise worse?
In my opinion, it is pretty equal if we do not edit the pictures because it is the same ISO. We know for a fact that the noise are in the shadows so I would say there is more noise in the underexposed photo.

Third subject 50mm f.14  ISO 100 1/400

Screen shot RAW

Screen shot JPG

The whole

What is the difference between the JPG and the RAW image screen caps?
There is slightly more noise in the RAW file because the JPG is compressed although it got compressed in JPG directly in the camera.

Assignment 2

Lighten with Torch Light

Lighten with Flash and gels

Lightpainting

Lab 6 Histogram

High-Key

ISO 400 200 mm f3.5 1/60

a.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your high key image fall (left or right on the histogram)

       Because I focused on the white object and that I was on spot metering mode, my histogram is exactly in the middle but we can still see it is a high key scene because the bars are all more on the right and that we can see that there is almost no darkness . The histogram looks like a triangle almost - where the pic is all on the right. 

b.     Are there any pixels in the high key image that would not print with detail?

      No because everything is white and the metering is making everything standing in the middle of the histogram, there is no loss of information by overexposed or underexposed area.

Low Key

ISO 400 200 mm f3.5 1/40

c.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your low-key image fall (left or right on the histogram)

      According to my histogram most of my pixels fall in the left side of the histogram and almost none in the middle and some in the right. The reason is that although my metering spot was on the white object, my object is smaller than my black background so most pixels are on the left of the histogram. 

d.     Are there any pixels in the low key image that would not print with detail?

      Yes, where there are blue spot on my screenshot, these are areas where there is no detail - just black. We have lost areas because there is a lot of contrast between white and black and I spot metered the light on the white object. 

Various Tone

ISO 500 135 mm f3.5 1/40

e.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your varied tones image fall (left or right on the histogram)

       It is hard to say because there are many pics in my histogram because there are so many different tones. 

f.      Are there any pixels in the varied tones image that would not print with detail?

      No because I spot metered on an area where it was mid-tone so I do not get overexposed or underexposed areas. 

g.     Considering the information on the histogram, do you feel your camera is properly exposing the high key and low-key scenes? Explain your answer

      I feel like my camera is doing a good job at not loosing details but it does not show exactly what I want to show as an image. 

      Fo my high key scene I would like my image more exposed so I have the choice to reduce my shutterspeed or increase my ISO although my metering would tell me that there would be too much light. 

      For my low key scene, I feel it did a very good job although I miss some details. I can also do the same thing as I would do for my high key scene - increase the light in my camera, so I do no loose the small details I lost. But I feel like my loss of details was very insignificant in my picture situation. 

      For various tone scene, my camera did an excellent job in my opinion. No loss of details and it shows pretty much what I was seeing. 

h.     Which histogram shows the most dynamic range?

      The various tone scene because there is more than one tone so the histogram is showing multiple pics. 

Lab 5 Noise Reduction

ISO100 50mm f11 4 sec

Low

Normal

High

Because my picture is well exposed and that there is almost no grain with a regular ISO100, we don't see much differences between the different types of noise reduction. There is less details in my high noise reduction though because noise reduction is like Lightroom luminance, it can reduce details if it is abusive. 

ISO800 50mm f11 1/2sec

Low

Normal

High

We can see a bit of noise in the blacks (tiny blue pinkish colour) that we were not seeing for ISO 100. We do not see it (or almost) on high noise reduction. 

ISO3200 50mm f11 1/8sec

Low

Normal

High

We do see more noise for ISO 3200. For Low, we see more than High.

Overall, noise reduction is nice to have but it does reduces details in pictures when it is too high. 

Lab 4

Part 1

ISO 3200 50mm f4.0 1/60

Auto WB

Preset Tungsten

Custom Second Trial

In my opinion, none of them has the exact colour. The custom white balance first trial failed because I used a grey card and by filling my frame with the grey card I block some ambient light. My second trial failed also because I focused on the whitest thing I could see which was the ceiling which also failed because even the ceiling was pinkish. The real colour to my eyes is between Tungsten and Auto WB. 

Part 2

ISO100 50mm F4.0 1/60

Auto WB

Preset Daylight

Preset Shadow

I feel like Auto WB did a good job there. It is between Daylight and Shadow presets. We can see in the window how Daylight is more cold than Shadow and this is normal because in shadows, colours are bluish because they reflect the blue sky so to get the original colour we have to add warmth. 

Part 3

ISO3200 50mm f4.0 1/60 Tungsten

I think that Tungsten did a good job for my orgue but for the stairs it doesn't. Although the walls are  similar to their true colours but colder, the wood seems muddy because it should be warmer. The real colours are warmer like between Daylight and Tungsten. 

Assignment 1

1. Shoot a sport.

170 mm f 2.8 1/1000 ISO 1250

For this shot, I went in the terrasse so I can be about the same high of my divers. I took maybe a 100 shots before getting one that I loved. I loved this one because it is well sharped although we can see movement on his toes. We can see his whole muscles and how bony he is. We don't see much of the face but on none of my pictures I got good cleared faces in diving movements. I cropped that photo that way because I liked the way he looks like being in the air. It was indoor so I had to use a grainy ISO. I tried a lot of shutter speed but this one was the sharpest. I risked to use a f.28 so I can have a shallow depth of field of somebody in action. I think I managed my shot. 

2. Pan a moving object.

50 mm f 9.0 1/40 ISO 2000

I made my sister drop the feather in front of the nobody's bedroom in my house until I get at least 3 in focused. I liked another one better but it was so blurry we could not recognize the feathers but it looked like a purple fire. I love the way we see the movement of the camera on the floor and that the feathers are so bright in front of a black background. The colour of the floor and the bed wood makes a nice complementation to the photo. There is a lot of empty space but it smoothly integrate the picture. I chose this one because we don't see the white door next to it. The light was coming from the stairs next to the room. The feathers were thrown at one meter from the bedroom door. I know that because of the movement, it was going to be hard to focus so I used a small aperture to increase my chances to get an image focused. It was at night so I used a grainy ISO. 

3. Shoot a night scene.

28 mm f 10.0 6 sec ISO 100

I do not have time to go out much at night because I am always working. So I decided to take a picture of my swimming pool with "all the lights" turned off at night after a long shift because I loved the way it looks peaceful. Although we do not see all of the swimming pool there, I chose that one because I loved the texture the benches gave to the picture. I also love the diagonal between warm colours and cold colours. I focussed on the diving tower. It was a night scene so I used a tripod to avoid camera shakes and I used a small aperture to get a deep depth of field. Because of the tripod I used the base ISO so I can avoid having too much grain. 

4. Shoot a portrait with a shallow DOF.

82 mm f 2.8 1/60 ISO 640

Because I used a telephoto (70-200mm) I did not need to get a big aperture (small f) in order to get a shallow depth of field. But because it was at night and there was not much light, I had to use f2.8. I had other nice shots of my sister but that one was good to show how shallow the depth of field is because we have a blurry background and foreground. I did like other pictures more but it is hard to not have camera shakes with a heavy lens like my 70-200. I also did her makeup myself. 

5. Shoot a landscape/cityscape with a deep DOF.

28 mm f 16.0 1/125 ISO 100

This is not quite the most crowded cityscape or the most natural landscape but I love the perspective of the shot. There is two diagonal intercepting each other (the stairs and the building). The sky was pretty greyish but had a tiny bit of blue which makes it less negative spaced. It is a picture of my work place again but I honestly love my work place in term of architecture and lighting. I wanted a deep DOF so I used a small aperture. It was during day so I could use a fast shutter speed with a ISO of 100 and not have camera shakes. I also took other pictures which were landscape but I though that there was too much negative space into them. This one has no negative space and has perspective and this is why I chose it. 

Lab 3

Part 1

Still Life
ISO 2500, f5.6 1/200

28 mm

50 mm

200 mm

It is impossible to get exactly the same image because of the distortion. The 200 mm seems more like bringing the subject to the middle and the 28 mm seems like making the subject wider than it really is. And we can see that DOF is deeper in 28mm and shallower in 200mm. 

People
ISO 2500, f.5.0 1/160

28 mm

50 mm

200 mm

I focused always on the left eye of Bianca. We can see how blurry the face of Matteo is and the DOF is shallow in 200mm. In the 28 mm, the DOF is so deep we can see the light and details of the library and Matteo's face is almost cleared. 

Part 2

f2.0 ISO 50 50 mm 1/500

f2.8 ISO 50 200 mm 1/200

f4.0 ISO 80 200 mm 1/200

f5.6 ISO 100 28 mm 1/100

f8.0 ISO 200 28 mm 1/100

f11.0 ISO 500 50 mm 1/125

f16.0 ISO 500 50 mm 1/80

f22.0 ISO 640 200 mm 1/40

We can see that at f22 everything is very focused and at 28 mm too even if the f is smaller. We can see also that 28 mm distorbs the images and 200mm makes the images more flat.


Part 2
ISO800 f2.8 1/125
135 mm

70 mm

28 mm

At 135mm, the DOF is more shallower but the cross seems more important than at 28 mm where the DOF is deep but the cross seems less dominant.